A century on, Hemingway's prose lures revellers to Spain's Pamplona

PAMPLONA, Spain (Reuters) – The famous bull-running festival of St Fermin in Pamplona, Spain, captivates visitors from around the world with its thrilling mix of adrenaline, tradition, and debauchery. The festival, known as Sanfermines, has a special significance for fans of American literature, as it was immortalized by Ernest Hemingway in his debut novel “The Sun Also Rises.” Hemingway’s deep love for the festival and his connection to Pamplona continue to draw enthusiasts to this iconic event.

Every July, Pamplona transforms into a vibrant and chaotic scene as brave participants sprint through the cobbled streets, chased by six bulls and six steers. Crowds of white-clad runners attempt to dodge the charging animals’ horns, displaying balletic moves to avoid a gory fate. The atmosphere is electrifying, with onlookers cheering from balconies above, as if part of a grand spectacle.

It was precisely a century ago that Hemingway experienced the Sanfermines for the first time, and he was instantly captivated. He returned to Pamplona seven more times between 1924 and 1959, finding inspiration for his writing and immersing himself in the bull-running and bullfighting culture. In 1926, he set parts of his novel “The Sun Also Rises” in Pamplona, becoming the voice of the post-World War One “Lost Generation.”

For literary enthusiasts like Bill Hillmann, reading Hemingway’s novel was a life-changing experience. After turning the last page at the age of 20, he felt compelled to become a writer and run in front of Pamplona’s bulls. Hillmann’s first run took place in 2005, and he has been a dedicated participant ever since, despite being gored twice in 2014 and 2017. He jokingly refers to himself as “haunted” by Hemingway’s ghost.

ALSO READ: Ahmad Said didesak berundur ketuai Umno Terengganu

Cheryl Mountcastle, another devoted Sanfermines attendee, read “The Sun Also Rises” during her high school years. For the past 24 years, she has rented an apartment in Pamplona with her family to experience the festival firsthand. Although the novel primarily highlights the drinking aspect of the festival, Mountcastle emphasizes other elements such as sharing food and dancing in the streets.

A rare connection exists between Hemingway and the people of Pamplona. Leontxi Arrieta, now 91 years old, had the honor of meeting the famous writer when he visited the city in 1959. Hemingway stayed in Arrieta’s family home, where he wrote, enjoyed vodka, and astonished the household by removing crucifixes from the walls. These encounters exemplify the profound impact Hemingway had on the locals and the festival itself.

There has been a longstanding debate among Pamplona residents regarding the festival’s overcrowding and how much of it can be attributed to Hemingway’s influence. However, Miguel Izu, a local writer and expert on the festival, believes that tourists were already visiting Pamplona before Hemingway’s time. Izu acknowledges the city’s use of Hemingway’s image for promotion, but also recognizes the mutual symbiosis between the writer and the festival.

While Hemingway’s legacy undoubtedly plays a role in attracting visitors, not everyone who attends Sanfermines is familiar with his work. Many, like Australian William Kappal, are influenced by social media, particularly exhilarating YouTube videos showcasing the excitement and danger of the bull-running. Hemingway’s name may hold less significance to these newcomers, demonstrating the evolving nature of the festival’s appeal.

ALSO READ: 'Tak logik mengaku masih ahli Bersatu lepas berucap di pentas lawan'

Although much has changed since Hemingway’s era, the essence of the Sanfermines remains intact. The bustling cafes depicted in his book, such as the Iruña, continue to welcome revelers. Participants still take part in the festivities, offering prayers and seeking prime viewing spots to catch a glimpse of the bulls without risk. The spirit of the event endures, bridging the gap between past and present.

If Hemingway were to witness Sanfermines today, he would likely acknowledge the festival’s evolution but recognize the familiar traditions that define it. The timeless spectacle that fascinated him a century ago still captures the imagination of those who dare to experience the captivating wonders of Pamplona’s bull-running festival.

($1 = 0.9093 euros)
(Reporting by Susana Vera; Writing by David Latona; Editing by Rosalba O’Brien)

Credit: The Star : News Feed