WELL into the evening on Saturday, outside a cafe on a small street running through the South Paris neighbourhood of Vaugirard, a scrambling server dropped a beer bottle.
It popped on the sidewalk, smashed into a million teeny pieces, and sent streams of suds running through the cracks in the concrete. The server let out a guttural ugh and, pairing heavy eyes with a wry smile, said, “I didn’t expect all of you.”