What is Seoul, in 2023?

When reading articles about cities around the world, I always find myself comparing them to Seoul, as it is the city I am most familiar with. I lived in Seoul for 12 years at different times, from the mid-1980s to the mid-2010s. Even during the years I didn’t live there, I visited the city at least once a year, with the exception of the first two years of the Covid-19 pandemic.

Over the 40 years that Seoul has been a part of my life, I have witnessed significant changes and growth in the city as South Korea evolved into an advanced industrial democracy. However, as we approach the middle of the 2020s, it is difficult to determine what kind of city Seoul is now, as cities worldwide are facing a series of challenging circumstances.

The most obvious challenge is the Covid-19 pandemic, which has hit large cities particularly hard due to the need for social distancing. Additionally, climate change has been an ongoing issue, with abnormal weather events increasing in frequency and causing havoc in vulnerable cities. Demographic changes have also brought rapid transformations to many urban areas, while economic shifts have led to displacement in cities that have become too expensive for the middle class.

Nevertheless, Seoul has been less affected by these changes compared to other cities, which raises the question of why. The answer lies in a combination of policy and luck. Despite the divisive political rhetoric in South Korea, the government has maintained a focus on moderate policies that avoid extremes, which has helped Seoul navigate through difficult times.

For instance, during the early days of the pandemic, South Korea prioritized testing and tracking rather than implementing strict shutdowns. This allowed Seoul to remain open while cities like New York and London turned into ghost towns. Additionally, policy efforts have been directed towards investing in transportation infrastructure and facilitating the construction of new, high-density housing.

Long-term investments in transportation have created links between Seoul, Gyeonggi Province, and Incheon, reducing pressure on Seoul. The upcoming Great Train eXpress (GTX) high-speed rail network, scheduled to start operations in 2024, will alleviate further strain on the city. Simultaneously, the construction of new housing aims to increase supply and mitigate price hikes, preventing Seoul from becoming an exclusive city for the wealthy.

In the face of an accelerating population decline, South Korean cities risk losing their social and economic vitality. However, Seoul’s desirability protects it from the worst effects, and the country will gradually accept more immigrants, many of whom will settle in Seoul. This gradual influx will allow Korean society to adjust and hopefully reduce tensions related to immigration that other cities have experienced.

Seoul has also been fortunate when it comes to natural hazards. It has a low risk of earthquakes and wildfires, and flood control measures along the Han River have significantly reduced the threat of floods. While climate change has resulted in more frequent typhoons, they usually weaken by the time they reach Seoul. Geographically, being inland means the city faces less direct risk from rising sea levels compared to coastal cities.

However, as climate change continues to worsen, Seoul can anticipate more typhoons and increased flooding. Yet, it still has time to adapt to these new realities. Additionally, the city is blessed with mountains and streams that offer green spaces for its citizens. Over the years, Seoul has transformed streams into parks and repurposed abandoned rail lines into impressive walking parks.

Despite its advantages, Seoul does face challenges. Air quality remains a significant issue that affects the overall quality of life in the city. This problem is not unique to Seoul but is prevalent in Northeast Asia. The South Korean government needs to actively promote decarbonization and the adoption of renewable energy to combat this issue. Furthermore, apartment ownership remains out of reach for many young people, necessitating a more proactive approach to address the problem.

So, what is Seoul like in 2023, my “second hometown”? It is not a glamorous city filled with Instagrammable landmarks, nor is it known for its beauty and cuteness. Instead, it caters to the broad middle class and steadily improves its residents’ quality of life. This steadfast commitment to the middle class explains its enduring appeal.

Robert J. Fouser, a former associate professor of Korean language education at Seoul National University, writes on Korea from Providence, Rhode Island.