PETALING JAYA: The traditional Chinese Tang suit (tangzhuang) and cheongsam have become popular outfits among the Chinese population. However, they have recently gained traction with a Malaysian twist and unique innovations, resulting in a significant increase in orders for these traditional outfits. Several young tailors are now incorporating Malaysian elements into the designs of the tangzhuang, according to the Federation of Tailors Guilds Malaysia’s president, Sam Ng.
The Tang suit has origins in Manchu and Han influences, featuring a mandarin collar and frog buttons. Over the past few years, both the hanfu and tangzhuang have seen a surge in popularity. The hanfu refers to the traditional clothes worn by the Han Chinese ethnic group. “Many young tailors have started to design them with modifications so that they appeal to more people,” Ng stated.
Lim Say Wooi, a 38-year-old tailor, is known for incorporating batik elements into the tangzhuang. He explained, “When customers come to order tangzhuang, I would suggest adding batik patterns or creating different designs on the buttons or collars. They retain the traditional style while bringing out a sense of fashion. He hopes that continuous innovation and adaptation will encourage more Malaysians to appreciate the tangzhuang.
Lim Say Wooi has observed increasing interest from a diverse range of customers including Malays, particularly those between the ages of 16 and 40, who are more receptive to the modified tangzhuang. However, he noted that older male customers are open to innovative designs as long as they are not “too drastic.”
Another tailor, Nick Ng, who started learning tailoring at 14, is particularly interested in Chinese-themed designs and incorporates them into men’s coats. “For example, young customers like it when Chinese button knots are featured in jackets and coats. I am merging Chinese-themed designs into coats,” he explained. Besides designing jackets and coats, he also experiments with various styles of Tang suits, using cooler fabrics due to Malaysia’s tropical climate in the designs.
“I am currently researching the hanfu to try and design something that features Malaysian characteristics,” he added. Sam Ng highlighted that the Federation has observed an increase in the number of young people joining the tailoring business, with nearly 2,000 members nationwide, and also promotes sewing in schools. “Sewing a garment relies on skill and patience to do each stitch. This is an art that machines and AI cannot replace,” he emphasized.
